Building Bookshelves posted a set of instructions on how to build these lovely shelves.

As the instructions note, it would be pretty easy to alter the dimensions of this shelf to meet your own personal space requirements. They may cost a little more than the Sauder ones from Walmart, but they look like they would support a heck of a lot more weight.

Check out the link below for a complete set of instructions.


Black Adjustable Shelves

Of all the types of available shelves out there, these metal adjustable ones may be some of the cheapest, quickest, and easiest to assemble.

I’m sure you’ve seen this type of shelf before. Assembly happens so quickly that it’s almost a non-issue. You can buy the support rails and wooden shelves at any home improvement store. As far as tools go, you’ll need a stud finder, a level, some screws, and a drill. Using the stud finder, find and mark the location of the studs in your wall. Then use the level to line the wall supports up, and use the drill and screws to attach them to the wall.

Now, put the shelf attachments any height you like. One nice thing about these types of shelves is you can make shelves of different heights, and change them later if your needs change.

Toss the wood on the supports, and you’re done. One thing I don’t like about these types of shelves is that without things on them, I don’t think they look very good. However, after you fill them up and add some lighting, they can look pretty good. The vertical wall supports will run you about $5 each, and brackets are about 3 apiece. Plus you’ll need wood.


Tetris Shelves

If you’re into video games and you’re into shelves, you’ve probably run across these in one form or another.

The problem? These (the unpainted ones) are $700.

These, with the colored backings, are $1,300. Plus shipping. Or, I believe you can order them for $120 per block. For the record, for $120 you can easily buy a non-functioning Tetris arcade cabinet and just store stuff inside it.

Instructables has instructions on how to build your own Tetris shelves. I’ve never tried it, but it looks like a lot of right angles to me. I can’t imagine they would be that difficult to crank out. If you build some, I would love to see them!

If you are broke, untalented, and/or lazy, you’ll have to settle for these: Tetris Ice Cubes.

Shelf House (I’ve Died and Gone to Heaven)

No, you haven’t died and gone to Heaven. Needing a place to “store his large book collection,” the owner of this 560 square foot Japanese home turned to the Kazuya Morita Architecture Studio, who covered essentially every available wall with shelves.

The only thing that could make this house more awesome is if there were smaller shelves that went inside the bigger shelves, and then little tiny baby shelves to go inside those.

Goodwill Hunter’s Rafter-Hung Shelves

Goodwill Hunter is back again with some great looking DVD/Video Game shelves for his basement. Unlike his previous, floor-standing shelves, these were designed to hang from the rafters in his basement. Check it out!

My gameroom has once again reached “unholy mess” status. Unfortunately, I have run out of gameroom space, and am forced to confront the reality that all of this stuff won’t fit in a single room anymore.

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Stackable Cardboard Shelves

Although I suspect these are more proof-of-concept than actual product (it’s hard to tell; the original site’s in French), I thought the idea was interesting enough to share. Designed Dany Gilles has created a set of interlocking/stackable shelves, made from recycled cardboard.

While I’m sure the designer was pushing the “made from recycled materials” angle, personally I’m more interested in the shelves themselves. I like the concept of shelves that can be assembled and re-assembled in different configurations. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve built shelves, only to tear them down a few years later when my needs changed.

In theory, you could build a similar set of shelves out of wood … of course, building them out of dead trees kind of goes against the original idea. In fact, it’s the exact opposite. It’s like replacing the engine in your hybrid car with a V8 to make it go faster. I was about to suggest that you could make them out of plastic instead, but now that I think about it, they already did. They’re called milk crates.


Goodwill Hunter’s Genesis Shelves

Goodwill Hunter is a man after my own heart. When you fill up your shelves, you don’t get rid of things — you build more shelves! Here is another example of shelf building by Goodwill Hunter. This guy is to shelves what I am to … writing about shelves. Take it away, GWH!

The shelves I originally built are now overflowing, so I needed to make another set of shelves to replace one of the two remaining store-bought bookshelves in my gameroom.

A few adjustments to my original plans in the following set of shelves:

Here they are filled with my Genesis collection — a much more efficient use of precious available space.

Each shelf is 44″ wide and holds about 42 games. With 11 shelves in the unit, that comes out to 462 total. I’m about 20 titles away from a complete boxed Genesis collection. This unit holds my A – P titles, while Q – Z are in a similar unit I made back when my Genesis collection fit on one set of shelves.

Goodwill Hunter’s Custom Game Shelves

The following tutorial, originally posted by Goodwill Hunter on Digital Press, was one of the original inspirations for this website. GWH did a terrific job of utilizing the space he had available, and the finished product looks completely professional. So good, in fact, that I once threatened to kidnap Mr. Hunter, chain him up in my garage, and force him to build fantastic shelves for me for all eternity. If only I could find him. With that, I’ll let him take it from here:

As a result of acquisitions at the Midwest Gaming Classic, the Circuit City $4.99 Sale, and some local game store blowout sales, this summer my gameroom has reached and exceeded capacity … It’s not a pretty sight:

Fortunately, the wonder that is wireless networking (through my employer provided PowerBook, and my UFO-shaped Airport … I love how easy Apple stuff is to set up and use!) has eliminated the need for a desktop computer, and therefore eliminated the need for the desktop itself. The desk has been moved to the basement, and over 6 linear feet of floor-to-ceiling wall space has suddenly become “Open for Business.”

Having already built a dozen custom shelving units for my gameroom, (it’s really the only way to go if you’re going to display over 4,000 games in a 10′ x 12′ room … and still have room to play ’em!) I knew that I would need to build 2 units for the corner space in question. Since the topic has come up in the past here, I thought I would take this opportunity to record and report on the process of planning, building and installing custom shelving units.


For me, the whole point of custom shelving units is to fit as many games as possible into the available space. To this end, the first thing to do is determine what’s going onto the shelves, and how much room is required. Since I plan to primarily use these units for items in DVD cases (7-1/2″ high … 5-3/8″ wide), I set the height of the shelf space at 7-3/4″. An opening this size will also accommodate most other game boxes, with the exception of SegaCD, Saturn, 3DO and longbox Playstation titles.

I then confirmed the size of the available space, which was 51″ on one wall, 36″ on the other, and 96″ of vertical space. Next, I had to choose a building material, … and 1″ pine boards have always worked well for me. Keeping in mind that 1″ x 6″ and 1″ x 10″ boards are actually sized 3/4″ x 5-1/2″ and 3/4″ x 9-1/4″, I moved to the design stage.

I decided to run the larger of the 2 units the length of the 51″ space, since splitting an 8′ board in half gives you 48″ shelves and a unit just under 50″ wide, including the side boards. With a 7-3/4″ opening and a 3/4″ thick shelf, I determined that 11 shelves could fit in my 96″ vertical space. Including the 3/4″ top board, my unit’s total height would be 94-1/4″. This nicely uses the available space, and still gives me more than an inch to tip the unit into place (if it were 96″ tall, and 5-1/2″ wide, you wouldn’t be able to tip it past the ceiling … the Pythagorean Theorem strikes again!)

6″ boards will give me the right depth for the shelves and side boards, but since I want to display some gaming knickknacks and McFarlane figures as well, I will be alternating between 6″ and 10″ boards for the shelves. This gives me 6 extended shelves with a 4″ of additional depth and a 16″ height, plus a nice, deep base board for extra stability. The extended shelves cut the available width for my second unit to 26″, which works great, as I can get 4 24″shelves out of an 8′ board, and a unit width of 25-1/2″. Using the same shelf layout from the first unit, I’m ready to determine how much lumber I’ll need.

I’ll skip the math and board division that gave me a total of five 8′ 1″ x 10″s and nine 8′ 1″ x 6″s. I also drew up a drilling template which will allow me to pre-drill the screw holes on the side boards, and told me that I need 96 1-3/4″ wood screws. A sheet of 4′ x 8′ backing board is added to the list (I have scrap for the smaller unit), and since I already have the wood stain and brads for nailing on the backing boards, off I go to Home Depot!

Here’s the sheet I scribbled my designs and measurements on, for what it’s worth. Next, I’ll let you know how much all of this stuff set me back, and start cutting lumber!


Before I bought the wood, I rechecked my plans and available materials (always a good idea) and made a few changes. On the minus side, my scrap of backing board was 1″ too narrow, so I had to add another sheet to my list. On the plus side, I discovered I had enough wood screws already in my shop to get the job done, and for 4 of the boards I would be buying, I could get by with 6′ boards instead of 8′. With my revised list in hand, I hit the road.

Bargain shopper that I am, I checked both Home Depot and Menard’s, and found they were having a lumber sale at Menard’s. My total for all the wood and backing boards was $61.00. Estimating the cost of hardware and stain I already had, I would put the total cost of materials for this project at $75.00. After I paid for the wood, I went to the lumberyard to pick out boards. I bought medium quality wood, and had to sort through a bunch of crap to find nice straight boards in good shape. Check both the length and the width of the boards for any warping, make sure there aren’t any loose knots, and shoot for at least one nice-looking edge on each board to face the front of the unit. Here’s my haul:


Before starting to cut, especially as close as I was to using all of each board, I stacked the boards and measured the shortest of each stack (they are not cut precisely to length). Of the boards that would be shelves for the small unit, one was exactly 72″. To leave space for the width of the saw blade, I reduced the shelf width slightly, to 23-7/8″ And after realizing that the backing board was 48″ wide, and would need to overlap to be nailed to the side boards, I reduced the width of the shelves for the large unit from 48″ to 47-1/4″. Now I was ready to cut:

I could have hauled all this wood down to the table saw in my shop, but my 40-year old knees and back protested mightily. Instead, I brought up a circular saw and did all of the cutting in the garage. And I can’t emphasize enough how right both your dad and shop teacher were … measure twice, cut once! One bad measurement can really screw up your project, especially if you don’t catch it until assembly. Oh, and always wear safety glasses too (Okay, Dad mode off.) I can get a table saw-like straight cut by clamping the board to my table, and then clamping a board as a guide exactly 1-1/8″ away from the cut (your saw’s gap may vary). This technique also works for cutting the backing boards to size, you just need longer pieces of scrap. After about 2 hours of cutting, I had all of my boards to size, and a very small pile of scrap to clean up:


Picking the ugly side of one of my side boards (so you won’t have to erase your pencil marks) I laid out the drilling template as shown in my first post. I then clamped two of the side boards together for two reasons: First, to mark the second board, so I wouldn’t have to redraw the drilling template again. Second, to help reduce splinters of wood popping out from the other side of the top board as the drill goes through. Some people will drill all 4 side boards at the same time, but if the drill is just a little off 90 degrees, by the time it goes through that bottom board, it will be way off the mark. For these holes, I use a drill bit that is slightly bigger than the threads of the screws. After marking each hole with a punch to guide the bit, I drilled through the first board, and halfway through the second. I repeated this with the remaining side boards, using the original marked board as my template. I then finished drilling the holes in the 3 half-drilled boards, using scrap underneath to limit pop-outs:

After drilling all the side boards, I determined which sides would be facing outward, and then counter sunk the holes, so the screw heads would be recessed into the sides. Next I marked all of sides of the shelf boards for drilling … if you don’t do this, chances are your pine shelves will split when running screws into them. I set up a simple marking jig to do this, by carefully measuring and drilling two guide holes in a plastic triangle. You can also use scrap wood for this or even a shoebox lid. Just be sure that each board is firmly set in your jig before marking with the punch … errors here can screw you up later too. After all edge holes are marked, drill them with a bit that is narrower than the threads of your screws … this will leave wood for the screws to bite into:

Once all of your boards are cut and drilled, you need to sand smooth any rough edges, cut marks, or splinters by your drill holes. Once that’s done, wipe or blow the sawdust off your boards, and you’re ready for staining.


This is my least favorite part of the project, as it’s usually tedious, messy, and smelly. You can get rid of the smelly part by using water-based stains, which I do. They’re a bit more expensive, but don’t stink (no airplane glue buzz either, for those of you looking for a cheap high), dry very fast and, and cleanup with water. I just use a rag and rub in the stain. This is also a good time, if you haven’t already, to determine which side of your boards will be facing out. You don’t have to stain the sides of the shelves, or the edge that will face the backing board. You also don’t have to stain the bottom of your bottom shelf, or the tops and bottoms of your side boards (can you tell I don’t like staining?). Once you’ve stained all your boards and they’re dry, you can move on to assembly:


This is the fun part for me … with all of the advance cutting, drilling, sanding and staining that’s already been done, assembly is like putting together a pre-made piece of furniture (without the Korean instructions). Since all pieces are interchangeable, I ordered the shelves based on appearance; shelves with the nicest edges at eye-level, shelves with ugly bottoms on the bottom, and shelves with ugly tops at the top. Same thing for the side boards … use the nicest boards on the sides that will be seen. Going from bottom to top, I attached the shelves one at a time, making the screws snug, but not tight:

Once all of the shelves had been attached, I flipped the unit over to see how well the shelves had lined up with the side boards. With the shelves snug, but not tight, you have a bit of leeway to gently tap the boards until the edges match up. Once this is done, tighten all screws and get your backing board out:

If you cut your backing board correctly, you should be able to position it on the back of the unit so it’s edges are 1/8″ to 1/4 ” away from the edges of the unit. Once positioned, nail down the corners at the bottom, and put a few nails along the bottom edge depending on the width of the unit. Then put marks on the backing board, along both sides of the unit, right above each pair of screws on the sides. Then get a piece of straight scrap, or a yardstick, and aligning it on each pair of marks, mark in the middle where you want to nail the backing board to the shelves.

These marks ensure that you won’t miss a shelf edge when pounding in a nail. Using your marks, move from bottom to top so as not to “bubble” the backing, and pound nails wherever you made marks. Once you’ve finished nailing, that’s it … you’re done! … with construction, that is …


Now, all that’s left to do is get the shelving unit into your gameroom. With a shelving unit that is almost as tall as the ceiling, this can be easier said than done. Having already maneuvered a unit up to my room larger than the one I assembled in the garage, I knew that I would be okay with that one. The larger unit, however, at just over 4 feet wide, would have been very difficult to steer up the stairs. So I pushed all the junk on the floor of my gameroom into even taller piles, and assembled the larger unit on the spot. Raising these beasts off the floor requires some faith, as it looks like they’re going to run right into the ceiling … but Pythagoras wasn’t lying, and when you stand it up, it should fit as planned:

TAH-DAH!!! Two custom-made shelving units, requiring about $75.00 of materials … and from design to installation, about 15 total hours of labor. I really enjoy making these things, and knowing that the ultimate result will be more space to display my collection only increases that enjoyment. I hope someone finds some useful information in all of this, but either way, it was fun to document each step along the way. I finally loaded up all the games I had planned to put on these shelving units, and still have a fair amount of space left over for once. Here’s to future acquisitions! And here’s the final pic as promised:

Thanks again to Goodwill Hunter for sharing his pictures and knowledge with us! I have a few more tutorials to share from him as GWH, so stay tuned!

Trim Upgrade

Yesterday, Destri over at The Mother Huddle demonstrated upgrading a cheap set of shelves by adding trim to them. It’s definitely a topic I’ve been wanting to cover, and since hers came out better than mine I decided to show off hers instead.

The first thing Destri did was pick up these cheap (and cheap looking) shelves from Hobby Lobby. According to her post, both combined cost her less than $12. Next, she picked up a miter box and some spare trim.

I have this same miter box. It costs around $8, and comes with a hand saw. It’s plastic, and allows you to cut perfectly straight angles with a hand saw. In the left hand side of the picture you can see the trim she bought. Trim is super cheap.

Believe it or not those are the same shelves, but with trim added! According to her post, Destri used finishing nails to fix the trim to the shelves (you can see them on the front trim piece if you look carefully). If you want to hide finishing nails, hammer them in just a little below the surface of the wood by lining up another nail on top of the first one and hitting it — then, cover the holes with a tiny bit of wood putty.

I’m going to write a longer post about these, but here are the DVD shelves I built a few years ago. In reality they’re white, but I didn’t use a flash in this pictures and they appear yellow. As you can see below, I used smaller trim for the front and sides of each shelf, and used a wider strip for the top. The trim I bought came in white, so I didn’t even have to paint it! I cut each piece to fit using the same miter box Destri used.

Want to upgrade your cheap-looking shelves? Add trim!

Link: The Mother Huddle

MachineGex’s Corner NES Shelves

When reader Tom (MachineGex) saw this oddly-shaped corner in his game room, he did what any of us would do — he squeezed some custom shelves in there to display his massive collection of Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) games!

From Tom: “The NES shelf is actually two separate shelves. If you look at the bottom, you can see how I used the left over shelf pieces to fill the space between the two shelves. I just put extra shelves in between them, and no one can tell that it is actually not one big shelf (see second picture for a better explanation). I also took off the baseboard and cut it to size so the shelves fit nice and snug in the corner area. It gives it a more built in look.”

It certainly does, Tom! Here is the second picture Tom sent, which explains how he “fused” the two sets of shelves.

Later this week we’ll be looking at some of Tom’s other custom shelves he’s put up around his house. Thanks again Tom for the pictures and the write-up!